Tailoring Form - GRADUATING THESIS - CORNELL UNIVERSITY
The thesis attempts to investigate a system of design strategies and form generating techniques; primarily looking at tailoring patterns as well as material exploration using synthetic fabrics, that allows for a process / method which could then be re-applied to other disciplines of design.
My interest in the relationship between Fashion and Architecture began with my participation in the Cornell Design League two years ago, which involved innovations through the medium of digital technology and fabrication techniques. My first year at the Design League involved experimenting with two-dimensional patterns and its translation into three-dimensional form. The pattern was scored and cut onto plexiglass through the media of the laser cutter and then molded to fit the contours of the human body. The crossbreeding of architectural media and tailoring techniques continued as an interest of research for the following year, where I investigated a process of creating three-dimensional fabrics through digital fabrication techniques. Patterns were generated in Maya and molds were milled through CNC technology. A sheet of patterned rubber fabric was created and stitched for display.
The construction of these garments were instrumental in outlining the direction of the thesis, which began with two simultaneous investigations-
- Studying the role of tailoring patterns in garment design as method to convert a flat two-dimensional pattern into a three-dimensional form.
Looking more closely at the basic pattern for a bustier primarily looking at the darts- (a wedge shape cut out in pattern used to control the fit of the garment) led to a thorough study of the shifting of darts along the pattern and the pattern and the effects they produced, not only in terms of difference in fits onto the body, but also seeing them as scales formal manipulations and recording the variations produced by the adjustment of darts- its location and size.
- The investigation of synthetic fabrics- 100% polyester which when heated retains memory due to the inherent nature of its composition.
The patterns generated from the earlier study were transferred onto the fabric and stitched along the lines of the pattern- and then pulled and heat set, thus producing a wrinkled effect onto the fabric; pre- stressed along the lines of the pattern. Tactile qualities of the fabric produced were of key importance and were cataloged.
I used the medium of the thesis to apply this research as one example of how these studies / process of making could be deployed- sitting it within the courtyard of the PS1 in NYC.
Exhibited at the Architecture Biennial Beijing 2006 (ABB206) Emerging Talents, Emerging Technologies. Curated by Neil Leach. Sept. 2006.
Published by Neil Leach and Xu Wei Guo, eds, 2006 Architecture Biennial Beijing: Emerging Talents, Emerging Technologies (NSFC of China, 2006)