Kolkata has a lot to recommend itself. But it?s during Durga Puja that the city routinely outshines the rest of the country. The lights, the grandeur, the festive autumnal air touches everything... Until, the cadence of the drumbeats reaches a hypnotic crescendo on Dashami. The penultimate day of the festival, it arrives smeared in vermillion as women gather to celebrate matrimony and sisterhood, and to bid farewell to the goddess on her symbolic journey upriver. Dugga dugga, they say.